Progress to Process: Interwoven
In April 2019, we find ourselves in the midst of a spring upheaval and weeks of hopeful and exhilarating grassroots action. Whilst Extinction Rebellion is raising climate emergency awareness to the next level on the streets of London and worldwide, Fashion Revolution is bringing people together during its annual, global Fashion Revolution Week (April 22nd-28th) in remembrance of the 2013 Rana Plaza factory collapse, following its mission “to work towards radically changing the way our clothes are sourced, produced and consumed”.
Words by Dörte de Jesus
Meanwhile, a two-week season to mark Earth Day 2019 is taking place at London-based art centre Somerset House (April 16th-29th). Exploring different themes around climate change and sustainable living, it features commissions and events by artists and writers who explore the important role of storytelling in promoting collective action on the global climate crisis.
One of these events is “Progress to Process: Interwoven”, a weekend festival (April 27th-28th) of debates, workshops and an interactive exhibition that explores new ways for makers, designers and companies alike to collaborate towards long-term sustainable change.
The event is co-curated by Makerversity, fashion designer Eliza Collin, and two new pioneering British textile companies that focus on sustainable textile innovation, Bysshe Partnership and Doppelhaus. The following images show a range of garments that were produced as part of a collaboration between these two textile innovators with up-and-coming fashion designers and will be part of the exhibition.
The festival and exhibition take place on April 27th and 28th.
Tickets for the event are available via Eventbrite.
Page 1 / Jacket designed by Ley Clothing using fabrics by Bysshe Partnership
Page 2 / Left: Dress (using fabrics by Bysshe Partnership) and Slippers (Cloudwool) designed by Eliza Collin, Right: Jacket designed by William Palmer using Cloudwool fabric by Doppelhaus Ltd
Page 3 / Left: Coat designed by Isabel Fletcher using Cloudwool fabric by Doppelhaus Ltd, Right: ‘Cowhide’ suit designed by Eliza Collin using Cloudwool fabric by Doppelhaus Ltd
Page 4 / Left: Yellow jacket designed by Ley Clothing using fabrics by Bysshe Partnership, Right: Red Suit designed by Johanna-Maria Parv using fabrics by Bysshe Partnership
Page 5 / Left: Pink coat designed by Johanna-Maria Parv using Cloudwool fabric by Doppelhaus Ltd, Right: Blue Shirt and Trousers designed by Mathilde van Rossom using fabrics by Bysshe Partnership
Page 6 / Left: Boiler Suit designed by Soster Studio using fabrics by Bysshe Partnership, Right: Wrap Skirt designed by Soster Studio; Trainers designed by Nelson Silva - both using Cloudwool
Page 7 / Jacket (Bysshe) designed by Ley Clothing; ‘Cowhide’ Trousers (Cloudwool) designed by Eliza Collin
Makerversity is a curated membership community of makers and creative businesses working within Somerset House Studios. Since 2017, the Makerversity cultural programme at Somerset House has interrogated making’s social power and cultural relevance. Their approach is interactive and hands-on, engaging with audiences invested in future art, tech and design as citizens, activists, consumers and concerned corporate innovators. The programme seeks to reflect Makerversity members and audiences: cross-disciplinary, collaborative and experimental.
Bysshe Partnership is an independent company producing high quality fabrics in the traditional textile heartland of the British Isles. They use natural and organic fibres, sourcing yarns from the UK and Europe, to provide a regional network of production where it is possible to oversee the entire process from seed to final creation.
Doppelhaus combines ethically sourced British wool with innovative nonwoven technology to create Cloudwool®. Nowadays European wool is struggling to compete in the global market and farmers often make a loss from the sale of their wool. Aiming to increase demand for natural UK wool, their transparent, local production chain is more efficient and ecological than conventional textile manufacturing.
Eliza Collin is a British fashion designer and one of the project’s instigators. As an artist and designer, Eliza’s work is concerned with issues surrounding production in relation to materials and people: “my relationship with materials as a designer are integral to the philosophy of how I work and what I make; in attempting to bridge the disconnect between material providence, human labour and eventual consumption the work rejects the hyper speeds of post-capitalist consumption in favour of prioritising sustainable practices and accountable processes.’
Launched in 2017, SØSTER STUDIO’s objective is to offer sustainable luxury fashion. They are a season-less brand that is deliberately crafted in small quantities. With a sincere interest in the environment and the impact the fashion industry has on it, they extend this to every aspect of their work.
Ley Clothing Company
Ley Clothing Company is a joint venture between fashion designer Ollie Hiscox and textile producers Bysshe Partnership. The brand focuses on utilitarian essentials ‘built in the North of England’. Ley have created a durable, ergonomic and ethical range of jackets using Bysshe’s hemp and cotton materials.
Johanna-Maria Parv is a Tallinn-born designer based in London. She graduated from Central Saint Martins BA Womenswear in July 2017. Prior to her graduation she worked at Balenciaga and Dior ateliers in Paris.
Mathilde Van Rossom
Mathilde Van Rossom is a fashion designer based in Belgium. She recently graduated from La Cambre, and was awarded the 2017 Future Fashion Designer Scholarship, which offers support for ‘an exceptional student who wants to develop their collection in a sustainable, and transparent way’.
As a clothing and textile artist, Isabel Fletcher creates immersive clothing installations that bridge different craft forms, and encourage viewers to see beauty in areas where others may only see function. Through her emphasis on craftsmanship, process and functionality, Isabel uses the medium of clothing to insert art into daily life.
William Palmer graduated with a first class honours degree in menswear from the London College of Fashion. He now works for renowned Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy in Paris.
Nelson Silva is a master shoe craftsman based in Canada. He is inspired by innovative and sustainable textiles. As well as using Cloudwool® he has worked with Leather alternatives such as Frumat and Cherry Fruit Leather.