Exploring Textile Traditions in Vietnam
After two years of pandemic-enforced hiatus, fashion consultant Thao Phuong could finally continue the work of her slow creative retreat company, TextileSeekers. Together with an intimate group of participants, she took off to Mai Chau in Vietnam to learn from the native crafts communities of the region and get immersed in the beauty of traditional textiles. Photographer Thea Løvstad accompanied the group and documented the journey.
Photos by Thea C. Sneve Løvstad, words by Dörte de Jesus
Dörte: Hi Thao, you’ve recently returned from a textile retreat in Vietnam – the first one you managed to organise since the pandemic. Where have you traveled and what you have taken away from your journey?
Thao: During our September retreat, held in Mai Châu, Vietnam, amid the mountains and rivers of the region, we connected with the three predominant native communities who call this area home – the H’mong, Black Tay (Thái Đen), and the White Tay (Thái Trắng) – uncovering timeless ancient textile skills along our way. We were a group of five women from different countries and backgrounds with one common thread – seeking to understand, learn and, ultimately, preserve these ancient textile crafts. Not only was this the first retreat post-Covid, but also the venture into a new region. The takeaway from this retreat was a reminder of what these experiences can inspire and bring rise to – not only for the travelers but also for the native people we connect with.
Dörte: You founded TextileSeekers to educate your retreat participants on the traditional textile practices of native craftspeople in Vietnam and to shine a light on their rich cultural heritage. Could you tell me more about the craftswomen you collaborate with and the techniques they share with you?
Thao: Made up of 54 native ethnic groups, Vietnam has a diverse micro-culture dotted along a unique landscape. Vietnamese indigenous textile practices offer a treasure trove of knowledge and insights that can inspire designers and textile-makers. Each indigenous group is known for a unique colour or a specific pattern incorporated within their clothing. The H’mong people are renowned for their indigo blue garments dyed from natural Indigo plants, the cultivation of hemp, and batik drawing using beeswax. The Thai people are synonymous with silk rearing and natural dyeing. These features serve as part of the identity of the group members, and to the outside world, the colours, textures and designs are refreshing and inspiring.
The techniques required to produce these garments are ancestral knowledge passed down through the generations. There is almost no written information on these skills. Everything is taught through showing, telling, learning, doing and correcting, and it takes decades to master each technique. Since everything is made-to-order, there is no wastage and very little pollution. There is a give-and-take relationship with nature, and a sense of respect for the surrounding, borne out of reliance.
Dörte: How did your own background led to your relationship with the local artisans?
Thao: My parents left Vietnam in 1979 as refugees when I was only eight months old. We arrived in Australia, and I grew up in Melbourne. I was fascinated by textiles as a child and have worked as a fashion designer for the last 17 years. I was drawn to visit Vietnam again to get to know the landscapes and native people. My first visit connecting with native ethnic groups was back in 2017 when I met Tamay, a local craftswoman. She guided me on a Red Dao embroidery workshop where I experienced one of the traditional textile practices in Sa Pa. I was in awe of Tamay’s entrepreneurial skills – from how she managed her stall in the Sa Pa market, selling antique textiles and clothing and designing her own clothing line, to her desire to connect travelers with her heritage and ancestral crafts, as well as her devotion to her family as a mother and wife. Her inner strength shone through, and I realised we have much in common, including our love of textiles. Our mission seems interwoven, and our values are aligned. We both believe in the importance of the preservation of artisanal crafts.
In 2018, I was invited to a “compassion home” in Lào Cai, Vietnam, that supports survivors of human trafficking – young girls lured into crime in the hope of securing better-paying work. While previous generations relied on handicrafts as a means of income, young people no longer feel they can continue this legacy. It is laborious and provides little financial return. This realization further convinced me that it is essential to preserve traditional crafts. I knew I couldn’t go back to my day job. Something within me was transformed. That was how TextileSeekers began.
Dörte: What fascinates you the most about the artisans’ work, and what would you like to pass on through your creative retreats?
Thao: There is a process of sincerity and respect for nature – the symbiosis and interplay are seamless. I see how we overcomplicate things. Our wants surpass our needs. It is a constant battle of balance within us.
No two retreats are ever the same. Not only are the itineraries multifaceted, but also the synergy of the travelers who join make my retreats special – I curate the retreats and connect with each traveler beforehand. The Artists Retreat launched this October, exists to establish and foster professional development for the visiting artists and the host community. It provides a platform for a creative community to be invigorated through an exchange of ideas and new ways of working. The aim is to guide the participants through a process of developing a new project or giving rise to ideas that have laid dormant in their minds. It’s also a perfect chance to be awakened to the beauty of sustainable textile practices.
Dörte: Are there any challenges that these remote creative communities are facing? And ways you can support them through your retreats?
Thao: Sa Pa and Mai Chau have cultivated a reputation for being tourist-friendly, but there could come a time when the number of tourists visiting declines. What will happen to the ethnic communities then who call it home? The local people have adapted to the modern market. It will be difficult for them to return to their roots and a simpler way of life once tourism slows down. This could create a disequilibrium, and the younger demographic might find a shortcut in sustaining the life they have become used to, thereby continuing the vicious cycle of being forced into crimes like human trafficking.
Exploitation is a subject that has not been discussed much. Having spoken to the women from the various native communities in Sa Pa, I was told that many “tour companies” partner with third-party local tour operators, and the artisans are not being remunerated fairly for their work. Hence I decided that TextileSeekers will not work with third-party agents. It will just be me leading the tours with the support of friends along the way. TextileSeekers is a platform for creatives who share similar values as I do. Just as we foster connections with the native craft communities in Vietnam, I enjoy collaborating with artists, curating their stories of travel, art, culture, and their work, and sharing them with our community.
Fabrics that are handwoven using ancestral knowledge and jewelry created from the roughened hands of a master metalsmith carry so much value and beauty for me. These art forms surpass any “gimmicky” products that are mass-produced and sold for tourism. They ought to be highlighted, cherished, and shared with the world.
Dörte: How do you aim to enrich our world through your work?
Thao: TextileSeekers curates experiences that focus on indigenous textile practices while highlighting the value of provenance. For me, it is the coming together of a collective; one which bonds over shared values and forges deeper connections with the local communities we visit. In doing so, we assist in the survival of ancestral knowledge for future generations. My goal is to share a journey that celebrates the indigenous people at the root of sustainable textile design and also opens a dialogue of self-discovery, planting the seeds for creative aspirations of our own.
Find out more about TextileSeekers retreats. The next retreat will take place in Hanoi and Mai Chau, Vietnam, and start on March 18th 2024.
